Back when I was a kid in Rio, I used to cut school every time that the waves were good. In its own metaphoric way, surfing taught me things that I knew I could not learn in the classroom. Fear, grace, balance… How to ride the flow of raw energy that can only be found in nature… How to be connected, mind and body. But, most of all, surfing taught me that some of the greatest things in life require great effort and still, at the end, produce nothing that can be shown to prove it (no tracks, no score, no commodity). Like love. Surfing is unpredictable, unmeasurable. It hurts sometimes but we still can’t live without it.
Learn And Pass It On: An Explanation
