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Zadig and Voltaire went Ziggy Stardust on us this season as Creative Director, Cecilia Bönström chose he of Starman stardom David Bowie, as her muse for the label’s debut runway show. Toning down the lycra onesies and opting for fresh-faced rather than lightning strikes and scarlet mullets, Bönström brings Bowie into her collection a little more subtly through androgynous silhouettes and lavish fabrics; light bounces off carmine velvet, gold jacquard and shiny rippling silk in jewel colours. Shorts were shorter, shoulders sharper and dungarees softer as they clung to bare skin in static velvet or super-supple leather. It was a street-wise collection for the more opulent among us. Styling came straight out of the early Noughties Kate Moss days when girls wore their rock-band boyfriend’s ties round their necks, little black shorts and shirts with as many buttons undone as you could get away with. The detail came with beautiful embroidery, an eagle covering the shoulder of a heavy-knit jumper or a wolf sauntering across a bandeau top. You’d fit right in to the upcoming Bowie retrospective in a metallic Z&V number but we don’t know how the V&A would feel about the bare bellies and barely-there hotpants…
Text: Felicity Kinsella
Photography: Mitchell Sams
