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Junya Watanabe’s Punks set their alarms early on Saturday morning, shoved their hair up high and zipped up their leather jackets, hitting the catwalk by 9.30am. Much has already been made of this show, with journalists predicting serious trickle down from Junya’s work onto the high street. The patchwork jeans in particular must be top of their most wanted list right about now. Punk is such a saturated theme, but Junya made it new again, working with luxury leather brand Loewe to create melting leather Perfecto-style jackets covered in zips and studded pockets, with tweed arms and legs. Patent court shoes finished each look as unexpectedly as you would expect from Junya and some side-on berets added a highland twist. Tweed panels and patchwork tartan on Loewe collaboration bags, jeans and dresses continued but the biker jacket had the final say, in a string of all black looks at the end. Deconstructing the biker basic into a cape, a long dress, a jumper and a jumpsuit, Junya said everything there is to say about the leather jacket. He owned it. We’ll look back on this show and call it seminal.
Text: Sarah Raphael
Photography: Mitchell Sams
