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Someone must have turned up the heat in the Jonathan Saunders studio these past six months, because Sunday evening’s racy show in London revealed a new, steamier side to the designer. It started out rather innocently, really, with foresty autumnal colours and a charming 50s silhouette, but suddenly a leather skirt appeared, then an armour-like patent leather top came along, and before you knew it, The Royal Exchange in the City had gone full-on NSFW, cupless corsetry in tow. There’s something quite brilliant about keeping things clean for so many seasons, as Saunders has done, and all of a sudden hit people in the head with a bit of BDSM. Not to say that he didn’t have elements of it in the past. Saunders was, after all, the first designer to make jumpers sexy. This season saw a departure from the land of separates, over which the Scottish designer has ruled for so many years, and seemed to focus on the dress as the epitome of the sexual garment. When it materialised in various lace – some with floral embroidery as a nod to Saunders’ print legacy – worn over big pants, it went straight to the erogenous zone of any Saunders fan, and judging from the beyond-packed venue he’s got more than a few.
Text: Anders Christian Madsen
Images: Mitchell Sams
