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In a world obsessed with pre-collections, street style and the all the other fast-fashion things that define the industry these days, there’s something quite punk about putting the words “freed from fashions” in your show notes. Christophe Lemaire was the designer, who did that on Wednesday morning in Paris, and while his slightly masculine, military-inspired collection was far from unfashionable, it definitely seemed like an antidote to the trend circus. “I have a very specific vision of style. I’m making clothes and working on a wardrobe, trying to make it evident, timeless and contemporary. So it’s not really about making a spectacle. It was just trying to find a way to show the clothes in a real way, in a very simple way, but still with a certain charm and poetry,” Christophe told i-D backstage, referring to the ‘Parisian street’ set and the production, which had models casually strolling around a cobbled floor to a track of urban sounds such as the clacking of heels and water dripping. “I’m interested in the poetry of reality – that’s what I’ve always been doing – and we try to bring as much taste and precision, and make it as relevant for today’s woman as possible,” the designer said. It translated into rich textures in knitwear, oversize outerwear and high-waisted trousers with shifting details at the ankle, proving that sometimes less is definitely more.
Text: Anders Christian Madsen
Images: Mitchell Sams
