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Whether the designers have been having co-ed Star Trek marathon nights with each other these past six months, or they were just foreseeing the meteor that hit the south of Russia this morning, it’s safe to say that sci-fi has found its way into the AW13 season in a big way. More specifically, it’s the military-in-space aesthetic established by the Hollywood sci-fi geek set that’s having an unexpected fashion moment. And leave it to Francisco Costa to go to town with it in a way so superior, it completely loses the parodic element you’d expect from a reference like that. For his Calvin Klein Collection show in New York on Thursday afternoon, Costa put the futuristic army through his sleek machine of clean-cut power wear and merged it with the uniforms of the 70s and 80s, resulting in a collection rich on wide-lapelled, boxy jackets and coats, nipped-in waists with robot-like belts with huge silver plate buckles, and some very expensive-looking PVC. It was the wet dream of sci-fi geeks and femmes fatales alike, and that’s quite an achievement in itself.
Text: Anders Christian Madsen
Photography: Mitchell Sams
