Click images to enlarge.
Turned up collars, high enough to give Parisian women drama and deep enough to frame a beautiful face, were omnipresent on Anthony Vaccarello’s runway in Paris today. The Belgian designer swept audiences into a sartorial story that was full of wintry drama from the get-go with swathes of black leather. “It’s not the first time I’ve used black but it is the first time I’ve used leather,” commented Vaccarello backstage,”with more knitwear and heavy materials which I’ve never used before.” Indeed, with buffed black leather across the collection, on skinny trousers, a shirt-dress, shirts and three-quarter length coats, often embellished with buckles and zips, Vaccarello added a punk feel to his cannon, which is always signed by the strip-thin mini skirts, low-slung waistlines, sporty chic and figure hugging silhouette. Key pieces were heavy wool jackets given edge by outer zips and metal pieces embroidered into the cuff; a jumper inspired by the sweatshirt with chain-lace on the arms and navy cashmere on the body, and dramatically cut, asymmetric dresses where the chain-lace was used to reveal a thigh all the way up to the waistline. No Anja Rubik this season, it was brunette Isabeli Fontani instead who was enlisted to draw out Vaccarello’s winter drama with a sultry, dark stare into the cameras.
Text: Sarah Hay
Images: Mitchell Sams
