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One of the most endearing qualities about Mugler is the fact that the house is pretty much run by a gang of hardcore sci-fi geeks. It was more obvious than ever at Wednesday evening’s show in Paris, which saw Creative Director Nicola Formichetti and Menswear Designer Romain Kremer play out their sci-fi fantasies in a collection which drew on uniforms from space films and morphed them with real-world varieties. “We started from the marine uniform but then went to Asian uniforms. That’s where you have those different silhouettes. And we also looked at sci-fi uniforms like Star Wars and all those movies. It was the idea of the uniform, but not one in particular,” Nicola told i-D backstage. The result was a cross between, say, Star Trek and Sky Captain and the World of Tomorrow, and one that fit in perfectly in the cyber-goth universe of Kremer. A stiff, super voluminous, super boxy overcoat in what Mugler called ‘chemical blue’ seemed to sum up the whole collection, plus the season’s fondness of an oversize silhouette. Backstage, Formichetti had already picked favourites: “I like the blue one that turns into a cape. That’s my favourite. It looks like neoprene but it’s not. It has this plastic sci-fi feeling. That’s very Mugler.”
Text: Anders Christian Madsen
Photography: Mitchell Sams
