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Jil Sander’s collection for AW13 was important not only because it kicked off the heavyweight chapter of the men’s shows in Milan, but also because Sander, with her rock-hard aesthetic and tendency to move only subtly from season to season, is our most excellent indicator of what the season is about. Three things stood out in particular on Jil’s square, white catwalk. One was the colours – blood red, navy, grey, and forest green – two was the coat collars – majestic and possibly detachable – and three was the checks and pinstripes. Once the trademark of nice granddads and mean stockbrokers, respectively, these woven patterns most recently made a comeback during Jil’s last days of glory, making a return anno 2013 – during her new era – ever so more likely. For her second season back at the reins of the company that carries her name, Jil proved her ability to push the agenda within her own universe, and do it without alienating her following. Not that anyone ever doubted her.
Text: Anders Christian Madsen
Photography: Mitchell Sams
