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Subverting and blurring the boundaries of menswear and womenswear is not new territory for Jonathan Anderson. Today’s collection however, titled “The Mathematics of Love”, saw the Irish designer challenge accepted norms with his most audacious menswear show to date. A slew of ruffle-hemmed skirts and shorts in shades of white, grey and beige and long-sleeved tops that gathered into another ruffle at the neck kicked off proceedings. These typically feminine decorative sensibilities extended down to the black kinky boots too as they frilled in leather around the calf, deftly mixing in the signature characteristics of his womenswear collection and creating a fascinating dialogue between the two. Whilst the attention grabbing bustiers and leather tunic dresses will get all the headlines, there is plenty of precise tailoring and ultra covetable knitwear included within Anderson’s intelligent experimentation. Overcoats came single breasted in strictly business navy pin-stripe and classic camel, whilst the fluffier mohair options in delicate pastel shades further explored Anderson’s “examination of bourgeois kinkyness and boudoir perversity”. This bold experimentation is sure to divide opinion, and that cannot be bad thing, fashion has and will always need brave provocateurs.
Text: Caroline Newell
Photography: Mitchell Sams
