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“The idea was to translate old punk and the idea of anarchy – you know, questioning the answers, questioning the life style, questioning what’s cheap and what’s not – into now,” a well-mannered and anything but punkish Tillmann Lauterbach told i-D after his show. While guests were seated, Paul Boche could be seen sitting in a chair in the middle of the square catwalk looking at a wall of artefacts, which eventually played backdrop to the show. “For me it was one man looking at his life, represented by this wall with all the things that go on in his head – like love, loss, money, whatever you can imagine – and some of these objects inspired some of the clothes and some of the clothes inspired some of the objects. There’s madness and tension in the pieces,” Tillmann explained, touching on the feeling of ‘lostness’ he recognises in today’s male youth. It was a tension expressed in the meeting between cheap and expensive materials, and a kind of tailoring that the designer referred to as ‘awkward in an elegant way’. Two drop-shoulder coats – one army green, one dark grey – with boxy sleeves and side closures were particularly descriptive of the concept, and demonstrated Lauterbach’s knack for expert cutting all the while.
Text: Anders Christian Madsen
Photography: Mitchell Sams
