A$AP Rocky loves the label, i-D Consultant fashion director Simon Foxton and fashion editor Elgar Johnson heavily covet the clothes. Astrid Andersen is 2013′s fashion buzz word.
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“The sprinter has the time to race against, the weightlifter has the weights, the bodybuilder only has the mirror.” Citing a quote from photographer Joachim Ladefoged as the starting point for her A/w’13 collection, menswear designer Astrid Andersen believes she would be rocking sweatpants and jersey tracksuits if she was lad, living in London today. Exploring the concept of vanity as an extreme sport, a heavy mob of bare built soldiers stormed down the clean, winding, industrial MAN runway yesterday. Referencing themes prevalent in the Danish culture of competitive body building, presenting a vulnerable but impenetrable being who is both beautiful but looks brutal, Astrid has always had a clear vision of the man she is designing for.” I see my man as this strong beautiful man with a very fragile and sensitive side which he protects through his group mentality.” Playing with a palette of lavenders, golds, black and dark denims, fur gillets, shell suits, all in ones, silk jersey t-shirts and nylon wadded bombers took central stage and perpetuated a frenzy of excited flashes from the photographers pit. i-D caught up with the old skool creative behind the breakout label to chat about her love of hip hop and find out why A$AP Rocky wants all of her wears.
When did you first start work designing the A/W13 collection, what was the
initial moment of inspiration that sparked your creative processes? In the late summer, I found a book on Danish bodybuilders and was completely into it, l watched a movie called 10 hours to paradise and knew that i wanted to work around a theme of vanity as an extreme sport and really wanted this season to be loud.
What was playing in your studio when you were designing this collection? Mariah Carey feat ODB, A$AP and TLC Crazysexycool.
What kind of lad and attitude did you have in mind when designing the looks for this collection? Young and somewhat carefree, all about his group of guys and finding identity through that.
Chat me through the references behind the prints you designed for this
season? I loved all of these NBA championship rings l researched and how they represented belonging to a group. I found pictures of old pottery that was all chaotic and weird, which i wanted to reflect in the formation. l added butterflies which was part of my research on reflection and the mirror and then just beautiful things in general. I see my man as this strong beautiful man with a very fragile and sensitive side which he protects through his group mentality.
Where did you source your materials for this collection? I have used a lot of Japanese jerseys and worked with denims which i found at PV in Paris. The Japanese are simply the best at producing these materials and i have been jumping with joy at the quality of the fabrics!
How do you and show stylist Elgar Johnson work together? we chat and email throughout the season, on the collection and in life in general. Working with Elgar is easy and we have a very natural relationship, we get each other instantly. We share the same aesthetic and humour, which is key to me. He is the one in the final days to bring the collection together.
How does being a menswear designer affect the way you dress as a woman? I think it’s more how l dress as a woman that influences me as a menswear designer. For example, I would never wear lace myself but love to figure out how it could be done in ways i find attractive
Which other emerging designers are you into, showing in London today?
Obvs Christopher Shannon as he is a pioneer and true inspiration and then l’m looking forward to Craig green, the newcomer at MAN his work is intriguing
How will you be celebrating after the show? Nice food with good friends. Wine.
Text: Milly McMahon
Photography: Mitchell Sams