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Alexander McQueen menswear made its LCM debut with an unsettling, even creepy show of translucent masked, oily haired boys with one gold earring and cutthroat razor sharp suiting; in pinstripes and polka dots and panels, in cathedral-esque rose window prints and gold-brocaded art nouveau chinoiserie, marching menacingly through a series of wood-panelled rooms. This collection found its inspiration in Savile Row, where McQueen trained, and took us on a historical tour of London menswear; from languid Limehouse opium dens in the 1890s, to tailored gangs of 50s Whitechapel and louche musicians living it up in Chelsea in the 60s. Our five favourite looks… (pictured in order)
Look 2: A thick, shin-length pin-stripe coat worn with collar and lapels up, and clear plastic post-accident mask.
Look 10: A heavy black trench with military red panelling, worn over a turtleneck.
Look 22: A long stained glass shirt worn as a sort of ecclesiastical man skirt over creased trousers and matching slippers, with a shiny wool cardigan.
Look 26: A silky dressing gown wrapped around a burgundy velvet smoking jacket.
Look 28: The shiniest of shoes and side-partings, and a black and gold patchwork of orientalist patterning.
Text: Dean Kissick
Photography: Mitchell Sams