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For spring/summer 13, Thom Browne followed the white rabbit down the rabbit hole and into a Wonderland of his very own. The designer’s brilliantly bonkers presentation at the New York Public Library yesterday was full of ghostly glamour, funhouse mirrors, pirouetting ballerinas and spinning plates. Inspired by Bauhaus artist Oskar Schlemmer, the author of Triadisches Ballett, Browne made a dramatic departure from his trademark cropped grey suiting to approach women’s clothing as a geometric artform. Highlights included a series of unexpected aquatic prints; blue and orange seahorses adorned a boxy white neoprene jacket, while whales swam merrily across bright orange shorts and jackets. Elsewhere crystal encrusted cowboy collars added an outlaw luxury to checked jackets and skirts, and retro daisy prints were given a modern reworking across sixties work coats, skirts and dresses. The finale saw a wedding dress walk its way down the runway on a lead, as black and white stripy tights and silver orb headgear completed the utopian vision. Weird and wonderful, this was Thom Browne at his best yet.
Text: Holly Shackleton
Photography: Mitchell Sams
See all of our SS13 womenswear coverage here.