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This season Miuccia Prada presented her own quirky take on Japan, via the swinging 60s, adding healthy doses of girly whimsy and strict rigour in equal measure. To meddle with such extreme duality is no mean feat, but Prada delights in deftly playing with contradictions. Backstage Miuccia spoke to i-D of “the struggles women have between toughness and softness, the rigour followed by delicacy, and the poetic part of women.” Pure 60′s shapes came via boxy silk jackets in dark inky blacks, with a single patchworked white flower worn with stiff A-line skirts; darkness touched by lightness. Sharp kimono style jackets then morphed into wraps that slid at sharp angles off the shoulder. With each and every look the flower motif managed to sneak on in there: as Andy Warhol’s Pop Art daisies on the long fur day coats; a digital print of a partly blown-away dandelion; or a sprig of Far Eastern blooms. It was always red or it was always white. The collection gradually moved from dark to light. By the end, Prada was manipulating, folding, and wrapping duchesse satin in palest pink and minty bubblegum green to evoke the ritual of kimono dressing. Throw in the towering Harajuku girl platforms and gold leather judo socks bound with patent leather bows and these were some serious looking Geisha girls with a penchant for flower power.
Text: Caroline Newell
Photography: Mitchell Sams
See all of our SS13 womenswear coverage here.