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The Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild was the venue for Maison Martin Margiela’s SS13 collection. With a white plastic wrapped interior, we took our seats inside a huge plastic carrier bag and watched the fashion unfold. Things got under way with a sequence of uber chic twisted cocktail dresses in powdery baby blue, nude and navy, followed by leg lengthening trouser suits, exaggerated bustiers and shoulder length gloves. Then came a series of abstract, stiff, minimalist versions of the ball gown and this is when things got really interesting; there was an exaggerated inflation to several looks that created a new voluminous sense of elegance, whilst some were cut close to the body, adding a restrained and fetishistic notion of sexiness. Both silhouettes were the result of playing with the house’s codes of cartoon-like oversizing and constraint, but this time taken to bold extremes; Intelligent evening wear; elegant, and a little bit twisted. In other words, characteristic Margiela.
Text: Caroline Newell
Photography: Mitchell Sams
See all of our SS13 womenswear coverage here.