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For SS13, Haider Ackermann produced yet another commanding show of beauty and controlled elegance. A designer with the mastery to present enthralling, thoughtful clothes in a runway show with added emotional resonance. Each girl walked out onto the catwalk underneath a flickering industrial light and a sad romantic voice-over soundtrack; a melancholy mood prevailed, tinged with a sense of romantic tragedy. Ackermann’s silhouette was long and lean, with expertly tailored pants paired with structured jackets, sheer spaghetti strap dresses were worn over barely there polka dots or over tough leather trousers, their line occasionally broken by robust leather rope belts. Layers of intricate monochrome patterned shirts and angular jackets billowed together like sails, whilst other collars bunched into stiff folds of complex origami. This was not just extraordinary clothes from a fashion designer at the very top of his game, there was a tantalising element of intrigue too, as Tilda Swinton said backstage, ”It’s always personal with Haider”.
Text: Caroline Newell
Photography: Mitchell Sams
See all of our SS13 womenswear coverage here.