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Maison Martin Margiela kept it simple this season. The invite was a map of the 8th arrondissement in Paris where the show was held. Which was ironic, given that the invite for the women’s show last season was a cryptic keyring and you could only find the address if you figured out that it was a torch and that you had to shine the light on a black surface to read the address. So this time, Margiela were laying their cards on the table. It was less off-the-wall and more to-the-point, concentrating hard on the triple M touchstones with a predominantly white collection, punctuated only by silver, pale grey, one coat made from military badges and one top made from travel souvenir badges. Setting the scene was a live house band with its members dotted about the venue playing a kind of jazz funk and models were mostly street cast, which gave it all a more human, more accessible feel. A few models looked like they didn’t quite know what they were doing there and broke into smiles, which was refreshing after three days of blue steel and all cheekbones. Smart white tuxedo jackets with double white lapels, white ribbed suits and vests, white collared coats, white drawstring trousers, white button waistcoats and some silver panels on T-shirts and trousers all took on a weathered texture, which suited some of the more weathered models especially! Staying true to its signatures, SS13 was a tried and tested product, the only thing we missed was the untested bit, the ? factor that Martin himself invented.
Text: Sarah Raphael
Photography: Mitchell Sams
Click here to see our SS13 Menswear coverage in full.