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Last year, Jonny Johansson decided to halt all expansions of Acne. For years, the company had grown with the pace of reality TV fame – from collaborations to new lines etcetera – and the thoughtful Swede decided it was time to improve and not increase. It was a palpable change at Saturday’s show in Paris, where the huge, echoing warehouse spaces that usually create the setting for Jonny’s shows had been replaced with the small blacked-out theatre room of The Romanian Embassy, the former 18th century home of a noble maîtresse to Napoleon III. The collection was in perfect proportion to the room: small but stunning. Only 21 exits made their way down the three tiny catwalks, but for a label with the exposure and price points of Acne, it didn’t feel short or lazy. Rather, it felt like a necessary means for Acne to maintain its commercial accessibility whilst keeping its status as a luxury fashion label. Of course, a vaulted room and an intimate show wouldn’t have been of much relevance had the product not been as good as it was. With no specific influences listed, Jonny drew on Acne’s romantic, rocky signature and added a string of new touches begging to be worn. Dark denim-on-denim in a blazer and shorts and in a little jacket and shorts seemed wrong in a good way. A black leather biker jacket with a blue suede sleeve was absolute perfection, while a series of inmatey pyjama stripes (the big kind) manifested the collection’s future sales success. Jonny’s pretty hot when he gets intimate.
Text: Anders Christian Madsen
Photography: Mitchell Sams
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