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At the end of Yohji Yamamoto’s SS13 collection, he came out to do the wave sporting a serious black eye and a black jacket with the words ‘For Sale’ painted in red on the back. The models that preceded him were also men with life experience, some with full beards, wrinkles and painted scars, bruises and black eyes of their own. It was a kind of, ‘I’ve rolled with the punches, taken the knocks and 31 years later, I’m still standing strong’ statement, but such a humble one, that it left everyone in the audience in complete awe of the work Yamamoto has done. The signatures were present and strong, with draping on the trousers, oversized silhouettes and some stark black and white looks, but this season the draping had drawstrings and colour was unabashed in coral, teal, sky blue and a cocktail of sunset oranges and pinks in one look. Suiting was as laid-back and comfortable as ever, pyjama striped shirts were undone or half tucked and shoes seemed to be each man’s perogative, some in pumps without laces (who needs them), others in boots or trainers. Baggy fishermen trousers were matched with equally baggy cardigans and a well-placed hat said ‘it’s because I’m an artist’. Black strings hung off zips and out of pockets, and white wires hung around jacket breasts, that half looked like headphones, only they weren’t connected to anything, because this guy didn’t need technology to get where he was going, it was a well-trodden path. Yohji, we salute you.
Text: Sarah Raphael
Photography: Mitchell Sams
Click here to see our SS13 Menswear coverage in full.