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A sense of softness and warmth exuded from the Viktor & Rolf SS13 collection, which showed at the picturesque Galerie de Minéralogie on Thursday, just as the Paris sun was at its brightest and hottest. It was the perfect setting for a collection, which showed off a new, more spiritual Viktor & Rolf man. “In a way the man is always us, because the men’s collection is inspired by us and what we like to wear. But this season we were in a spiritual mood. It might not be the time for it, but we feel quite optimistic at the moment,” the designers told i-D online backstage. “We were thinking of a sunrise,” they said, pointing out the palette of golden, orangey tones, which shone through the collection. Reflection was a key element: an orange suit and a grey jumper were covered in mirror sequins, while metallics appeared on ties and high-top trainers. It was “classic but updated,” as milliner Noel Stewart commented backstage, referring not least to the hand-woven, Ecuadorian panamas he’d made for the show. With its soft suits, prints on tailoring and light knits there was a sense of post-war calmness to it all, which could sit in a 1950s context just as well as a 1920s one. You could say it was Brideshead Re-Revisited, but slightly in the future.
Text: Anders Christian Madsen
Photography: Mitchell Sams
Click here to see our SS13 Menswear coverage in full.