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The undine motif isn’t a foreign feature in the editorial work of Nicola Formichetti, and when the creative director’s SS13 Mugler mermen sprawled down a bright white catwalk in Paris yesterday evening, the sight seemed almost familiarly pleasing. Through gill-like layering in all-white and all-fuchsia looks to belts and shoes in python reminiscent of fish scales, the occasionally Tim Burton-esque aesthetics of Formichetti sat perfectly with the collection’s nods to the ideas of his fashion forefather, Thierry Mugler. These included layering of tone-on-tone geometrical shapes, skeletal breastplates in suiting, and sharp, sharp shoulders. Not to insinuate that Formichetti’s Mugler drowned in nostalgia. On the contrary, with the addition of his menswear designer Romain Kremer’s cybergoth signature – which was particularly present in a rave shirt that shimmered iridescently like fish skin – fresh oxygen was blown into the Mugler fish-tank for yet another season, and the trademarks of the house’s founder looked newer than ever. Exceptionally brilliant were two salmon-coloured exits, which took the collection’s theme to priceless heights and, whether intentionally or not, poured some welcomed wit into the menswear pool.
Text: Anders Christian Madsen
Photography: Mitchell Sams
Click here to see our SS13 Menswear coverage in full.