Click images to enlarge.
In his final collection for Yves Saint Laurent, Stefano Pilati delivered perfect quintessential Parisian chic with a chilly dominatrix edge, sending out an army of bold and fearless power-women, sizzling with Helmut Newton vibes. The 80s have been a frequent touchstone for Pilati during his tenure at YSL and today saw him revel in the decade he loves. Big-shouldered tailoring, swathes of black leather, a wasp-silhouette, hair slicked back and lips were darkly glossed – these vamps had us at “hello”. The calla lily (a symbol of lust) was embroidered sparingly to decorate sleek trouser suits, whilst dresses made of chain mail solidified Pilati’s dangerously erotic vision. As he came to take his final bow, the crowd stood to applaud, twice… paying respect to a talented designer who has shown grace and resilience through some tough times. What’s next for YSL under new Creative Director, Hedi Slimane, we’ll have to wait and see, this collection, however, was all about Stefano Pilati and a truly powerful and elegant farewell.
Text: Caroline Newell
Photography: Mitchell Sams
Click here to see our AW12 Womenswear coverage in full.
