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Blue Moon, you saw me standing alone.
It was twilight hour at Viktor & Rolf. A blue moon provided the backdrop and we heard howls before Victorian shaped shadows began gliding across a screen. A flash of blue from Katy Perry’s hair on the front row caught the moonlight, which was kind of perfect, though entirely incidental. The models snaked down the runway, following its curve; their cold white skin and blood red lips give-away traits of their species. Capes and high fur collars continued the theme, which came to a climax with a silk silver pyjama suit complete with trailing cape for added speed whilst seeking out prey. Fur coats were in abundance, shaved into patterns like a warrior fashioning her catch and shiny patent skirts and boots sexed up the set. Even a classic black suit and white shirt, with exaggerated Victorian sleeves, took on a sinister guise. But, for all its darkness, the collection was beautiful and wearable in its entirety. As the music softened, a series of dresses and stunning eveningwear approached. Of particular note was a velvet jumpsuit, sheer from the shoulders up with a dainty crystal hem and a brown sheer shirt with black crystal pockets. Leader of the pack Karlie Kloss closed the show in a formal black tulle dress with bronze and silver frills, in time for the audio layer ‘The moon had turned to gold’, and as Karlie walked back the moon on the backdrop played along. To finish, the silhouettes of Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren glided across. While we delighted in the decadence and drama, the clothes didn’t need the cover, they spoke for themselves.
Text: Sarah Raphael
Photography: Mitchell Sams
Click here to see our AW12 Womenswear coverage in full.