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Hubble bubble toil and trouble. Rick Owens loves a bit of dark drama and pre-empting the first look on the runway came an ignition of fire that raced along a hanging horizontal strip and served as a backdrop for his collection. A softer direction for AW12, the signature Owens thigh high, platform boots came in a rich chestnut, his ultra-soft hides came in a shade of blush similar to rosé champagne and finally the make-up was flawless and classic: red lips, soft eyes, lightly defined brows and lashes. Each model wore woolen balaclavas netted and holed to cross the eyes. The contrast of classic beauty against brutalistic references delivered by high-end fabrics with precise draping and darting was poignant at parts of the show. The Owens heroine is a devastating beauty with red lips wrapped in cashmere and cast in a tomb of concrete, his favourite substance and a constant architectural reference point for him. Sound track? Zebra Katz, Ima Read (ft. Njena Reddd Foxxx).
Text: Sarah Hay
Photography: Mitchell Sams
Click here to see our AW12 Womenswear coverage in full.
