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The thunderous sound of galloping horses and pulsating neon ushered in Riccardo Tisci’s equestrian vision mixed with bang-on street aesthetic and trademark fierceness. Drawing inspiration from 1970′s horse riding and the sexual vibes of Guy Bourdin, Tisci masterfully toyed with a masculine-feminine mix. The collection focused on his faultlessly precise tailoring, updated with a horse-riding spin, from the giant solid-disc earrings that evoked the blinders of a carriage horse to the riding boots, crafted with a loose leather “fold-down” that disguised the heel. Jodhpur-shaped pants were given a slouchy modern attitude. The shapely jackets too, with their bustled peplums and ruffled seaming, had touch of Victorian riding costume, as well as menswear aplenty in the tail coats and faultless suiting. Pleated dresses suspended from the shoulders by delicate straps, barely-there wisps of silk embellished with lace and rows of rhinestones – added the softer “feminine” side. Givenchy secured 13 new girls exclusively for the season, bringing extra freshness to his forceful show. This ain’t no pony club!
Text: Caroline Newell
Photography: Mitchell Sams
Click here to see our AW12 Womenswear coverage in full.
