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Phoebe Philo showed just 22 precise looks this season in a private showing above the store in St Germain. The exclusivity of the show only heightening the appeal of a designer who intuitively seems to understands what women want to wear right now, you only have to look at her much emulated aesthetic throughout the collections this season. For Fall/Winter there was the rumble of punk rebellion in the mix. Exposed zippers, an iconic emblem of punk, were a defining detail throughout her razor-sharp collection. Opening up knees, running down calves, curving round torsos giving literal “edge” to the clothes. If there was any doubt of the defiant attitude of this confident collection, the pink mink sealed the deal. Philo’s trademark panelling was present again, but, in London’s Olympic year, they also had extra sporty raciness. Philo continued to develop further a silhouette she introduced in her pre-fall collection, an oversize drop-shoulder volume, with the jumbo overcoats stealing the show. As the editors left the venue, their mental shopping lists were in overdrive.
Text: Caroline Newell
Photography: Mitchell Sams
Click here to see our AW12 Womenswear coverage in full.
