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With this collection it’s clear that Anthony Vaccarello has moved things up a gear and it’s true, after winning both the ANDAM fashion prize and the attention of all the big fashion editors in France and beyond (the days of thirty people being squeezed into a small showroom borrowed from Maison Michel are over) the time is right for him to push forward and develop his sartorial story into something that has more layers. Tailoring was evident from the get go, infused with all manner of military cuts all in a heavy, deep navy Duchess satin. Suits and knee-high, peep-toe boots gave way to the signature Vaccarello, gravity defying slashed dresses with wired draping. Masterful tailoring takes training and know-how, it would be nice to see Vaccarello refine and polish this metiér in the future. Of the highlights a lightly sparkly jump-dress caught the eye after the masculine suits and this season it was arguably Joan Smalls who stole the show in a floor-length gold number. i-D online caught-up with Anthony backstage…
The shoes were a collaboration with Giuseppe Zanotti tell us about meeting him… Ah the shoes… I met Giuseppe, we had a good rapport, I like to work with people that I like and I think Giuseppe is like that also. We started with this small capsule collection and he immediately said yes to producing my shoes which is very flattering, I’m a big fan. Will you get to visit the factories in Italy? Oh yes he invited me to visit his beautiful factory, it was just amazing. How did you meet? I met him at a dinner and found we have a lot of friends in common like Anja Rubik. You love Anja, you took your final walk with her, what is it about her as a model that fits the Vaccarello aesthetic? I think she’s just perfect. I like women not girls, I think she’s very intelligent, she’s strong, I like strength. Tell us about the collection, there was a heavy satin sporty vibe… I like to inject street, sporty and evening, glamour into daywear like all the jackets. I mixed army with glamour. What were your inspirations? Tailoring, I wanted more of that. And 50s lingerie, I like big conic bustiers and mix it with army jackets. What are you off to now? I have a dinner with Giuseppe!
Text: Sarah Hay
Photography: Mitchell Sams
Click here to see our AW12 Womenswear coverage in full.
