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Fashion East showed the exact same line-up as last season – Maarten van der Horst, Marques’Almeida and James Long. It started with Marten, who’s moved on from tropical Aloha prints to rose-kissed officewear and underwear, and a self-proclaimed ”inappropriate vision of suburban nymphomania.” The Dutch designer’s tongue-in-cheek take on autumn/winter clothing included city-boy poplin PJs, black negligees, white satin pants, bottom-and-topless stockings and gorgeous red roses printed onto whites and blacks. Very hot!
Marques’Almeida took their signature grunge look to the woods – like Gus van Sant’s Last Days – with ponchos and hooded capes in black and yellow denim. Tops were ripped apart, often hanging open at the back or only together by the odd safety pin; shirts were hairy and jeans had slashed trains along their length. Fatima Al Qadiri’s Hip Hop Spa played over the finale.
James Long was the third designer out, showing off an ostentatious collection inspired by Chelsea girls and Russian roofs. Models with big, big hair were decorated with threaded tassel trims, golden embroideries, exotic zig zags and the most massive loose knits. Really though, the sparkling Barbie-pink skirt and trousers stole the show!
So who’s next Lulu?
Text: Dean Kissick
Photography (in order of text): Mitchell Sams