Paris mens fashion week is a ride of many emotions, the strength of vision by the most successful designers is so varied that each show takes audiences into a new world full of different sights, sounds, sartorial vocabulary and grammar.
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Of the pack, the Yamamoto man is cool, considered, intellectual, gentle and always secure in his masculinity. This is in part demonstrated by Yohji’s exemplary casting of models of all ages, colour and size. They walk, usually at a confident yet slow stroll and today they were directed to stop and pause at a central crossroads; lone travellers on an epic journey where clothes protect from the elements. With sculpted cowboy hats, blanket throws and the whistle from a Western movie soundtrack playing, the references to the rootless nature of the traveller on horseback felt clear. Amidst all of this, suiting, waistcoats and overcoats came in all shapes, lengths and volumes but all gathered under the umbrella of Victorian military and formal attire. Raw fibres and fine wool were textural themes while colours were somber with the exception of flashes of psychedelic blue or yellow just peeking through on silk ties, bringing humour and lightness to a contemplative mood.
Text: Sarah Hay
Photography: Mitchell Sams