From the first foot placed onto the runway we were firmly in Mugler land. Many are ambivalent about the antics of creative director Nicola Formichetti and designer Romain Kremer but if one can tell a Mugler suit just from the opening ten seconds then they must be doing something right.
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Two tall, powerful males strode down the runway like giant humanoid robots, with their dark sunglasses they were like the 80s MTV presenter Max Headroom. With cameras strapped to their bodies, ideas of them watching us watching you and man bonding with machine came to mind. Mugler have live streamed their casting, make-up and music selection process online in the run up to the show so it was super fun to see them turn the live camera on the audience.
Each of the models paused before a black glittery background, indeed whilst wearing the strong, tapered suits and jackets, the Mugler businessman still has glitter in his hair from the night before. It’s a strong nod to the lifestyle that the Mugler mens designers see their clientele living. Go getters who work hard, play hard and swish past in a liquid leather cape. Tonight’s show was all about the pull and push between evening attire and casual wear. It’s as if Romain and Nicola are at that stage of manhood where they’re being invited to more formal events but they can’t leave behind their goth/club kid/DIY punk roots and they’re trying to work that out sartorially. As the exclusive track by Azealia Banks grew and grew in intensity and audience members fell more and more into the groove so the looks progressed into a more clubby vibe. Popping out onto the runway to take their bow, Nicola and Romain wore the matching liquid leather/ rubberised leather, tux-bomber hybrid jackets. They both threw kisses at the Clarins sisters who sat front row, both wearing Mugler dresses. Worn, Mugler womens looks fierce, full of high-camp attitude. The bionic Mugler man is evolving, he’s being born but he’s just as sleek and as powerful and tough.
Text: Sarah Hay