The Maison Martin Margiela team took us back to school on Paris’s rue de l’Ecole with a collection containing slick, timeless classics alongside more avant-garde, ultra-conceptual outerwear.
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On entering the Couvent des Cordeliers the audience was introduced to the collection, with several pieces stood static, scattered throughout the venue forming an introductory exhibition, an amuse bouche for what was to follow. The centrepiece? No. 10 “A cardigan hand-knitted from garbage bags”, exactly what it says on the tin! Seats taken, the show then began, a tale of three parts, in chapter one came a lesson in ‘How to do camel’. From the first look, fabrics were layered – turtleneck, three piece suit, overcoat – with contrasting textures adding differentiation to the camel stock. Chapter two presented a more road-ready, MMM man, red biking leather trousers and matching boots juxtaposed with a more formal and muted top half. Zips added to jacket shoulders created versatility in removable sleeves. And in the final phase, the garbage sack had its moment in the spotlight, making its way into bombers, parkas and hooded duffle coats. Stormy weather? Pack a sack!
Text: Sean Baker
Photography: Mitchell Sams