The Lanvin collection felt like a game of two halves…
Click images to enlarge.
The first, with lots of mohair wool jackets and jumpers paired with flares and other nuances from the seventies gradually loosened its domination on the runway to a more streamlined look. Where the first section contained odd, conch shaped shoulders and bell bottomed pants next came a sprinkling of looks, a suit and a jumper with large orange stripes that felt like the crossing or demarcation into the next, stronger territory. It was at this point that audiences recognised the Lanvin man. Urban, romantic, imaginative yet efficient models wore slimcut trousers, hiking/motor-cross hybrid boots and biker jackets in eggshell and dark brown with futurisitic panelling details everywhere. The Lanvin high-tops and suit combo was reborn and it looked dead cool. Duffel coats lined with leather with gaffer-tape esque straps, paired with shirts and ties that had a chain across the top. It’s these small details, the tie chains at Lanvin, the arrow pins and earrings at Louis Vuitton that are bringing something tiny yet fresh to the whole world of how a man can wear a suit in this new century. Flourishes of goats fur on long coats, striped inner linings and puffa outer layers on more and more duffel coats surely mean that the duffel will be the key piece for Lanvin fans next winter. To end, cravats and tails were mixed with high-top trainers and puffas; this mash of high and low was explored by other menswear designers this week and it feels like a creative vista with more to give. Where we’re going with this idea of top hat and trainers is unclear but it will be fun to see men work out what works for them next winter.
Text: Sarah Hay
Photography: Mitchell Sams