Suiting was the big story of AW12/13 in Milan and Paris and Kris Van Assche did his own meditation on this by a collection that was full of ideas on the world around us expressed via his sartorial designs.
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He talked about the white collar and blue collar worker in the show-notes and the need for protection against the harsh economic winds whipping around the planet. All very interesting, gazing at the collection – especially as this designer’s carrot cut trouser seem to have taken off with other menswear brands too – it feels like Van Assche is moving to the next level in his artistic voyage. Today, while he mused upon suits and the recession there was clearly discussion on the emotions therein: push and pull, constraint and freedom, dark angel and fetishised devil. The latter came from one look where a worker wore wide, pleated, indigo blue trousers over boots with multiple buckles. Over his tie a rucksack crossed over his chest, like a business man come angel yet the black, buffed leather and straps everywhere gave undertones of fetish wear. As 2012 begins in earnest, it’s true, we all wonder, what will the new finance worker be, efficient friend or hardened foe?
Text: Sarah Hay
Photography: Mitchell Sams