Leather, pleather or PVC?
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Raf Simon’s collection of trenches, trousers and shirting for Jil Sander’s autumn/winter 12 menswear show was perfectly executed and provoked an array of reactions from the watching crowd. There was a military theme, along with the feeling of fetish. A small dinosaur print also made an appearance, “representing the different facets of man,” explained designer Raf Simons. Leather, pleather or PVC, whichever material Raf decided to centre his collection around it was an astounding success! Here he gives i-D online a quick overview:
“For me it was about certain clichés in men’s fashion. I always try to be quite daring. I was very interested in bringing black back because it’s a fashion staple; most people will wear black or something black. But it’s not just about black or leather, or darkness, it’s more about the man, a classic man who’s very aware of how he looks and wants to look. I also addressed clichés, the black suit for instance and on top of that, the psychology of man; the man who stays a boy but also has a family. He might have children, be a rock star, a business man, a dangerous man, an isolated man, a social man or a sexual man.”
Text: Elgar Johnson
Photography: Mitchell Sams