Sacha Walckhoff’s knowledge of his house is matched only by that of its founder. And it was his personal attachment to the legacy of the label – a result of seventeen years working under the direction of Christian Lacroix himself – which characterised this effort, his third since re-launching Lacroix.
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As a nod to the 120th anniversary of US Vogue, Walckhoff dedicated his collection to the magazine’s legendary 1988 cover – Anna Wintour’s first – featuring Michaela Bercu in a Lacroix couture jumper embellished with ‘la croix’, across. It was a literal homage, seen in a version worn by James Smith on which the cross was spelled out in 1980s-esque badges (including one of Princess Diana), but also in the abundance of reds used throughout in tailoring and sportswear – on checks, in Aztec-like prints and in patent leather – which evoked memories of Lacroix’s couture heyday. An undoubted step up for Walchoff, which showed that the illustrious house can find a place in modern menswear.
Text: Anders Christian Madsen