This season saw Philo break away from her linear and streamlined aesthetic and play with shape, resulting in new proportions from the queen of minimal. Strict military jackets came with full, rounded sleeves, blouses came with voluminous pleated backs and abstracted peplums circled the hips. As ever, Philo took the simplest ideas and then changed the rules slightly – waists were higher, trousers were wider, great coats came short over an extra wave of hemline, over trousers with a subtle brocade. There were more of the hit sweaters of last season, now with an abstract cream and orange graphic print, a slew of ultra-covetable shirt options and her low-slung, finely pleated leather skirts had the audience on the edges of their seats!
Text: Caroline Newell
Photography: Mitchell Sams