Mute the volume, decrease the saturation, Singapore born designer Tze Goh is on a mission to prove a point in minimalism.
There’s something incredibly pure about Tze Goh’s designs. Never veering off course, he has stuck by his high-concept, aseptic design mantra through three seasons and SS12 is looking as sharp and sculpted as ever. Meditating over every fold and curl of fabric, the garments are like art canvases, just hung on a body not a wall. His CV is equally spotless, having studied in Paris, at Parsons School for Design in New York and completed an MA at Central Saint Martins. Now based in London, i-D online styled up a few Tze Goh pieces then sat down for a debriefing with the designer, where we spoke seriously about fashion matters with very straight faces.
What’s inspired your SS12 collection? Is it finished? Where are you showing? The SS12 collection is inspired by the aerodymanics of aeroplanes, and the air currents that swirl around them. It leads us to produce garments that are streamlined, but with a sense of volume in them, constructed through a blend of traditional tailoring and performance fabrics. I will be presenting a short film of the collection in Somerset House on 17th September, 3-7pm.
Having moved between Singapore, Paris, New York and London, what’s your favourite city? I would have to say London, as I am based here and all my friends are here.
Do you have a muse? The model Guinevere Van Seenus is my muse as she has grown up to look quite sophisticated over the years. I design with a confident women in mind, keeping my designs as clean as possible, so that when you see her in my garments, her look is not cluttered and her own personality shines though.
What attracts you to minimalist design? I like minimalist design as I think that we have so many things in the world, and so much to do, that a clean, white surface provides a respite from all the clutter in the world.
There’s a strong conceptual, artistic element to your designs, are there any artists/ architects who have influenced your work? Yes, in this season for example I was looking at Orrefors glasses for the way that the glass produces straight sharp lines and strong curved lines, which I then re-interpreted into my garments.
What’s the colour for SS12? We are working in black, navy blue, white, off white and khaki.
Where do you source your fabrics? I go to Premiere Vision twice a year, and source the rest of my fabrics here in the UK – this country produces the best wool.
What music do you listen to? I prefer classical music as it can be quite soothing but I don’t like it when it becomes emotional.
What are your hopes for the future? I hope to grow the business into one that is recognizable by people as a brand to turn to when they want good products done in an understated manner
Tze Goh is stocked at LN-CC.com
Text: Sarah Raphael
Photography: Duane Nasis
Styling: Raphael Hirsch
Model: Lisa V @ Premier Models
Hair: Yoshitaka Miyazaki using Bumble and Bumble
Make up: Sunanda Mesquita using Mac
Photographers Assistant: Emma Gibney
Set Designer: Mefanwy Jones
Far left: Dress Tze Goh. Jumper Uniqlo. Shirt American Apparel.
Middle: Trousers Tze Goh. Jumper Tze Goh. Turtle neck Jumper John Smedley. Jacket Beyond Retro.
From right: Jacket Tze Goh. Jumper Hugo Boss. Skirt American Apparel. Shirt Paul Smith. Sports Jacket Beyond Retro. Shoes Underground Creepers
Special Thanks to Louis Connelly and Davide Russo.