Basing her accomplished graduate collection upon the work of morbid Austrain Expressionist Egon Schiele and the graphic pattern designers of the Bauhaus, Ruth Green is the red-haired, Céline-obsessed womenswear designer who creates clothes for super fierce women with an understated attitude.
Tell me about your research processes and the techniques you employed to create your graduate collection? I basically focused on creating my own tailoring technique which I feel is a modern way – it doesn’t really follow a traditional tailoring but has similar principles of having the inner piece and an exterior piece. So when I’m making my garments, the fabrics that I’ve used together to give volume and structure so I can actually use them to make structural pieces. They’re cut slightly differently the inside and the outside, so very minimal seams. Very few darts, but maximum shape.
What designers or labels inspire you? I love the work of Celine, especially the way it’s been changing. I really wanted this to not be fussy. Early 80s Antonio Beradi, who’s on the panel – I heard him do a speech. British designers like Christopher Bailey, who use British things… this is all British lambs wool that I’m using.
What kind of a woman do you have in mind when you’re designing? Someone super-fierce. For this I was kind of imagining someone like Tilda Swinton, someone really statuesque to carry off these big powerful shapes.
How did it feel to see your final collection going down the runway? Oh amazing! Well, the first couple of shows I stayed backstage because it was five shows over two days so I stayed and made sure it was all fine, and then it was amazing. I loved watching it. It was such a buzz, you can’t beat it.
You only graduated two weeks ago, what music did you use for the show? I used music by Unkle. I wanted the show to feel upbeat, so we began things quietly and then built up the layers on the clothes as the volume of the music increased – as it got darker, the layers and the music built up and up and it all got more dramatic, it was perfect.
What is fashion now? I think it’s whatever you want it to be. It’s so broad and so full of all these different ideas. I think it’ll be interesting to see what happens in the next few years, how it’s going to pan out.
What comes next for you? I go back home, lug the collection back on Ryanair and then we’ll see!