Bringing the best in new British talent onto the industry’s radar Lulu Kennedy’s handpicked selection of designers showing at Fashion East this season presented an array of elegant, finished and wearable collections.
Opening yesterday’s catwalk presentation at Mayfair’s The Haunch of Venice, Portuguese womenswear design duo Marques’ Almeida bravely took the concept of double denim to dizzying new heights. Developing their collection since i-D online profiled them earlier in the year, they teamed distressed, ripped and frayed ocean blue denims with heavy layers and leg-warmers. An understated street-style elegance developed throughout the label’s multi-faceted collection, which felt both original and relaxed. One to watch.
Next up: fash pack fave, RCA graduate James Long, who dispatched his gang of blonde bombshells showing a collection of luxe hard knits, tough leather and two piece outfits. Intricately decorated by layered sequins, luxurious snakeskin patterns and sheers, James took the much lauded aspects of his previous collections and developed them with brave direction, further establishing the signature style and details his aesthetic is becoming recognised for. Designing for a powerful women, with a focussed mind and brave ideals, James Long is sexually empowering women without over exposing skin!
Ending the afternoon’s Eastern treats, Central Saint Martins graduate Maarten van der Horst got totally tropical with his Hawaiian-style print shirts, capri trousers and bermuda shorts. Providing a much welcome escape from the looming clouds which towered ahead, the eye popping blues, yellows and greens prominent throughout felt exciting, light-hearted and unconventional. Married with intimately embroidered, thrift store sourced petticoats his man-size, loose-fitting garments floated fluidly down the runway with a waft of irony, rewarded generously by the audience!
A successful eighteenth consecutive season commanding the catwalk, Fashion East remains at the forefront of fashion, fronting the most up-coming and conceptually challenging.
Text: Milly McMahon
