Shipwrecked buccaneers and 18th century lost boys walked from the dark and onto the spotlit runway that was covered with desert island sand. Demeulemeester subtly referenced military shapes that could have come out of a William Thackeray novel and played with a whole range of formal suits and dinner jackets as everyday wear. Loose fitting, buttoned jackets were layered over waistcoats, white shirts and knee-length trousers. The colour palette was dark and dusty: black, brown and white. Dinner jackets sleeves were pulled up to the elbow and laces on boots were untied. The leather sandals were eye-catching. It was a romantic vision of the poetic anti-hero, cast asunder beneath a cruel sun, all soundtracked by Nico.