Last season (AW11) designer Dai Fujiwara took his farewell by staging a theatrical display of sartorial origami on the catwalk were models were dressed by assistants by outfits made from paper and staples. It was an elegant statement of simplicity and a poetic farewell. At the end of May 2011 it was announced that Yoshiyuki Miyamae would commence as designer of Isseye Miyake womenswear and that the menswear division, to be renamed Isseye Miyake Men, would be designed by the studio team. What immediately struck with this collection was the uncluttered ease. Artisanal prints reached across loose-fitting, cotton trousers and matching waistcoats topped off by linen, single-breasted jackets. Culottes also appeared. The use of block colours on knitwear under light summer macs was pleasing. Tourquoise, canary yellew (there was a lot of yellow on the runways this season) and royal blue were the standout colours of the palette that elsewhere was off-white and shades of brown. The spirit was upbeat with a jangly guitar riff from the 60s putting a spring in the models step. A great beginning to a new era.